Get this book dirty. Take it to the beach, to Baja, or into the outback. Or, find a place that you loved as a kid. If you can't do that, go into your garage. The back seat of your car will do, or your bed, if it's full of sand. Do not, under any circumstances, put this book on the coffee table next to pretty volumes about "Napa's Wine Country." It is not to be read with shoes on, and you won't understand a word of it if your brain is being choked off by a tie. When you're finished reading, go out beyond the paved roads and mapped out surf camps, into the untamed world of surf. Surf hard.